CHICHICASTENANGO
Transportation
From Nebaj: collective microbus to Santa Cruz Quichè, 25 GTQ, 2 hours, acceptable human density inside the vehicle. Immediate connection with chicken bus to Chichi 5 GTQ. It is here that I understand I have to sit at the back rows and not get stuck to the front ones to be more comfortable.
To San Pedro : my first tourist shuttle 60 GTQ. A rather old bus, 50 seats, crowded with tourists instead of Guatemalans
Sleep
Hospedaje San Jeronimo, 80 GTQ an ensuite single, without breakfast. Very clean bathroom, with plenty of hot water.
Family run accommodation, no frills and very basic, yet very nice and with personality, with common areas decorated with local crafts. On the same street as the cathedral, 5 minutes walking distance. All the city strays dogs seem to meet in front of the entrance at nightfall. During all the night they interact and discuss their hierarchies, but in the morning they heavily sleep.
Eat
Don Pasqual Restaurant, in the Cathedral square, very nice but expensive. Comedor Don Miguel next to the Panaderia Corazon de Jesus, one pollo encebollado 23 GTQ, the best of the holiday; I replicated at dinner, 19 GTQ for eggs, rice beans and fried bananas. The pastry shop which produces all kinds of desserts, including birthday cakes, is very popular
Excursions
I arrived on Wednesday July 26th at around 13.30, one afternoon before the Thursday market. I visited the cerro Pascual Abaj and cemetery with a guide 150 GTQ; the guides, in beige uniform and badge of the tourism agency, wait at the main square and hotel entrances, and propose various excursions. At least in my case, it was not worth it. The price varies depending on the duration of the services requested, and is negotiable.
Impressions
Very scenic market and, above all, everything which takes place on the steps of the cathedral, chatter, business, incense, flowers, prayers …
After what happened in San Francisco El Alto I was a bit paranoid but here there were so many tourists, and chances of being robbed were drastically smaller. However, these things happen so it is better to pay attention. The stalls selling everyday objects are concentrated in the square in front of the cathedral, protected by ugly plastic sheets, and in a covered area next to the square.
Apart from that, it is mainly about souvenirs.
As I noticed, prices are still lower than in Flores and Antigua. More than the market, however, what made Chichicastenango very interesting to my eyes are the special ceremonies officiated by the local population, both in the churches and in the special altars, located at the cemetery and at the Pasqual Abaj. At the latter I missed the action and found only some melted wax on stone cubes, pine needles scattered here and there, empty bottles and cigars.
On the other hand, the ritual I witnessed in the cathedral during the 8.00 mass was very unusual.
In the central aisle some stone slabs like those at cemetery or Pascual Abaj are placed. While the priest celebrated the usual Catholic liturgy, in Spanish and local language, right next to the desk where I was sitting, and in close proximity to one of the aforementioned slabs, a local family, praying in a very fervent manner simultaneously with the sermon, carried on their very personal ritual based on loud invocations which superimposed to the classical celebration, accompanied by liquor sprinkling, shedding of rose petals, lighting of candles.
This mixture of sacred and pagan seemed very particular to me, above all because it was tolerated in a Catholic church, which to tell the truth I have always considered very little open to everything which is not the official doctrine imposed by Rome. It was really an interesting morning. More than the colours of the market and traditional garments, this is the memory which most comes back to my mind when I think of Chichicastenango, and Guatemala in general.